Yes indeedy, I bought an Eldar Revenant Titan from Forgeworld. What with a little thing called "having a job", another called "having a life" (and an extension of that last one called "training a puppy"), along with a painting list that's already the size of Devon, I think it may take quite a while to complete this project.
A project of this size probably requires a static page of its own, and this will only be of real use to fellow hobbyists if I properly describe what's involved in putting one of these beasts together. Maybe if one of you out there is deciding whether to part with your hard-earned cash for one, you can get an idea of the scale of the job before you commit (who knows, it might not be as tough as it looks!), or if you've already bought one and are beginning to put it together then I can pull out some of the things to watch out for and we can all learn from my mistakes along the way!
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Delivered safe and sound - here's a look at what's in the box:
I've never actually seen one of these beasts in the flesh, so the first thing that struck me was the sheer size - I really have got my work cut out with this one. If you've never worked with resin models before then there a couple of things worth bearing in mind as we look at the unassembled model - first of all the little tabs left over from moulding are very thick, but resin can be quite brittle, so clipping them off with snippers like you would for a normal plastic sprue is a no-no - a bone saw and a little work with a file is the way to go. Secondly some warping can happen - in this case particularly noticeable on the long thin weapons, so some careful heating and bending is also required (yikes...). Finally, as there's a fair bit of size and weight to the model, you'll need to pin most of the load-bearing joints for extra strength, and plastic glue doesn't work - superglue required.
This is going to languish in a drawer for a while now while I finish other projects and generally panic and avoid starting....
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Actually something I found for straightening out the FW resin is slightly cooler than boiling water (around 170-180 degrees), you dip the part you need to be straightened out and wait about 6 seconds. Pull it our and it will be very flexible and will then start to cool and harden. Just hold it in the position you need it in and, BAM!, straightened out piece.
ReplyDeleteI did this with my pulse cannon for my Lynx, worked out well!
Cracking advice - thanks Fayte, will definitely need this for the weapons (can't have a posh shiny Eldar titan with droopy guns now can we?)
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